Victor Mason, Mojave™ Ampworks LLC visiting Jason Bonham, Joe Banamassa. "This is what Lyle Caldwell said about it on the forum: I´ll however quote the good Lyle Caldwell from the plexiboard. We can get into why,but i absolutely promise that the rect tube will live a LOT longer if you simply bypass the standby switch. To make that rectifier tube live a LOT longer stop using the standby switch at all. ´Cause of this ALL CC model 30´s should be checked out as far as this as a routine service checkup. Ie should one of them solderjoints break for whatever reason you might have a,to the letter,killer AC-30 on your hands. That means that there´s absolutely nothing keeping the HT wires to that socket apart from the actual solder. I guess some moronic bean counter at Vox had ordered to many PCB sockets,so on SOME of them that is what´s installed for a chassis socket in the case of the rectifier. SOME of these amps use a wrong type socket for the rectifier tube. I just use regular metal film for the same results. The EF-86 sports a completely different pinout and you´ll get that nice smoke inherent in all electronics in a heartbeat if you do.Īs far as using carbon comp resistors for the tried and true mod,i honestly fail to see the reason why. I honestly don't think any of the current production tubes would make any consistent difference in sound (I'd just go with JJ Teslas), dunno about using an EF86 in V1, I love those tubes but I admit I've never tried that on my CC2.ĭO NOT,i recap,DO NOT put an EF-86 into any slot of a CC2.
VOX AC30CC2 SWITCH REPLACEMENT MOD
No one wants their amp to go to shit tone while playing a gig.I strongly suggest an inexpensive mod well explained by Lyle Caldwell (just google his name + "AC30 mod"): just changing R6 and R7 to 220K USING CARBON COMP RESISTORS made a huge improvement to the amp overall. If I had to pick between tone and durability, I'd pick durability. No one wants their amp to go to shit tone while playing a gig. Don't suggest any preamp tubes that are $50 a piece. I was reading a little bit about 12ax7's/ECC83 in my Aspen Pittman book and it led me to google which led me to here. I tend to be more of the thought where I tend to not think too much about the amp and the tubes and everything involved. I know some of the brightness could come from too many buffer pedals, and I'm working on that. I play with big strings, 11's and in standard tuning. (All clock descriptions are from standing behind the amp, not in front of it.) The bright switch is not enabled, and I think I usually do the EQ switch in custom mode. I find that the bass control is around 3 o'clock, treble around 10 o'clock, and tone cut at around 90%, meaning almost all the way clockwise. I run the amp around 3-5 (9-11 o'clock) on the master, and I run the normal and top-boost in LINK mode and both are around 11'oclock. I think I currently have GT in every tube socket, medium length story as to why, if you care to know. So, that being said, I run a lot of pedals, some true bypass, some not. I love the general tone of the amp, and I'm honestly I'm fine with the amp, but it bugs me when tone controls are in odd positions, like nearly OFF. I got the Alnico Blues and I'm playing a telecaster. I know this is an old post, but I'm looking to tame the treble on my AC30 CC2. (Electro Harmonix in the Power Tubes section) I use a Fender American Strat, all single coils.
I have Celestion Alnico Blues and performed the Bright Capacitor mod (to tame the highs). So I need to pull the Top boost channel up to par so that I can switch back and forth between Clean and Overdrive. I have noticed that the Normal channel, if I use it as my overdrive OR clean, sounds better than Top Boost as overdrive or clean. Right now I have the default Tong-Sol in V1 and a Chinese in V2. Moreover, I need to keep the gain knobs at relatively the same level since I am switching back and forth with a floor pedal, So i can't just increase the gain on the Top Boost. I would like the Top Boost channel to be very dirty. So in keeping with my requirements for Normal being clean and Top Boost being dirty, I need:Ī) in V1 position, a tube that can provide a nice chimey clean classic AC30 tone for Normal Channel, as well as supplying the dirt for the initial "Top Boost" gainī) in v2 position, a tube that can break up early and provide the overdrive for my "Top Boost". V3 is phase inverter needs to be balancedġ x GZ34 Rectifier (often goes bad in AC30) will cause fuse to blow if bad 4 x EL84/6BQ5 power tubes, need to be matched quadģ x 12AX7/ECC83 pre-amp.
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